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I have heard also that the remedy is not to flood the surface but to use a rag and wipe away any excess.
Danish Oil is completely non-toxic and food safe when dry which means in can be used on all oak items and in all environments. It is easy to apply, has an attractive ‘natural’ low sheen finish and excellent long-term protective properties.Similarly, you would need to sand (groom) your worktop to make sure it is consistent overall in an optimal condition for oiling.
It’s not a film finish - it dries and hardens in the wood, not on the wood so your work piece will not have a ‘plastic’ look. Different oils have their strengths and weaknesses, some are extremely good in one thing and others are good in another. Top quality Danish Oil is made to be absorbed into wood, protecting, nourishing and ‘feeding’ the wood from the inside. Note: Before building up the protection on the “A” face of your worktop, you need to apply two coats to the back “B” side.In what is easily my fanciest attempt at woodworking, I'm making a tree/stand for my watches using some red oak stair railing and 1" red oak dowel from HD. In general, there are different options to choose from: bristle brush, foam brush, roller, piece of cloth, non-abrasive pad and etc. The finish is also water-resistant (not water-proof), making it easy to keep the surfaces clean and reducing the chance of stains.
How did you apply the danish oil, if using it outside it is suggested that you apply with a brush and flood the surface, not removing any excess.
Is the oak going black all over or just around any fixings, if the latter it's the tannin in the wood reacting with the iron in the metal, you should use brass or stainless steel on oak.